ISO Settings in Digital Photography

ISO Settings in Digital Photography
by Darren Rowse


What is ISO?

In traditional (film) photography ISO (or ASA) was the indication of how sensitive a film was to light. It was measured in numbers (you’ve probably seen them on films - 100, 200, 400, 800 etc). The lower the number the lower the sensitivity of the film and the finer the grain in the shots you’re taking.

In Digital Photography ISO measures the sensitivity of the image sensor. The same principles apply as in film photography - the lower the number the less sensitive your camera is to light and the finer the grain. Higher ISO settings are generally used in darker situations to get faster shutter speeds (for example an indoor sports event when you want to freeze the action in lower light) - however the cost is noisier shots. I’ll illustrate this below with two elargements of shots that I just took - the one on the left is taken at 100 ISO and the one of the right at 3200 ISO


100 ISO is generally accepted as ‘normal’ and will give you lovely crisp shots (little noise/grain).

Most people tend to keep their digital cameras in ‘Auto Mode’ where the camera selects the appropriate ISO setting depending upon the conditions you’re shooting in (it will try to keep it as low as possible) but most cameras also give you the opportunity to select your own ISO also.

When you do override your camera and choose a specific ISO you’ll notice that it impacts the aperture and shutter speed needed for a well exposed shot. For example - if you bumped your ISO up from 100 to 400 you’ll notice that you can shoot at higher shutter speeds and/or smaller apertures.

When choosing the ISO setting I generally ask myself the following four questions:

1. Light - Is the subject well lit?
2. Grain - Do I want a grainy shot or one without noise?
3. Tripod - Am I use a tripod?
4. Moving Subject - Is my subject moving or stationary?

If there is plenty of light, I want little grain, I’m using a tripod and my subject is stationary I will generally use a pretty low ISO rating.

However if it’s dark, I purposely want grain, I don’t have a tripod and/or my subject is moving I might consider increasing the ISO as it will enable me to shoot with a faster shutter speed and still expose the shot well.

Of course the trade off of this increase in ISO will be noisier shots.

Situations where you might need to push ISO to higher settings include:

* Indoor Sports Events - where your subject is moving fast yet you may have limited light available.
* Concerts - also low in light and often ‘no-flash’ zones
* Art Galleries, Churches etc- many galleries have rules against using a flash and of course being indoors are not well lit.
* Birthday Parties - blowing out the candles in a dark room can give you a nice moody shot which would be ruined by a bright flash. Increasing the ISO can help capture the scene.

ISO is an important aspect of digital photography to have an understanding of if you want to gain more control of your digital camera. Experiment with different settings and how they impact your images today.


source:
http://digital-photography-school.com/iso-settings
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When is the Best Time to Buy a Digital Camera? 3 Questions to Ask

When is the Best Time to Buy a Digital Camera? 3 Questions to Ask
by Darren Rowse

The answer to this question will depend upon your specific situation. Here’s three different ways of deciding if
now is the best time for your purchase:

1. Do You Need a Digital Camera Now?

I’ll get the most obvious one out of the way first - do you need a digital camera now? I was in a digital camera shop recently and got chatting to a sales guy that I know and he said to me ‘ the best time to buy a digital camera is when you need one’. Sounds pretty obvious - but I think there’s something in it. You see many people in the market for a digital camera get into the ‘waiting game’. First they wait for the new models to come out, then when they are released they wait for them to come down in price, but then rumors start circulating on new
models around the corner and so they wait for the new models…. you get the picture.

If you need a new digital camera now (maybe you’re going on a trip, maybe there’s a wedding coming up that you want to photograph etc) then now is probably the best time to buy. Do some shopping around, read some reviews, negotiate a good price and actually make a decision.

Buying Advice: If you need a digital camera now - buy it now.

2. Do you want ‘the latest’?

If you’re not in such a hurry for a digital camera but instead want the latest model it might be worth waiting a couple of months.

Digital camera manufacturers have an annual cycle of announcing and releasing new cameras and there are two main times of the year when they all come out.

The majority of digital cameras are announced early in the new year (January to February) and will actually make it to stores in February to March. There is a second round of announcements in September with those cameras hitting stores usually in November in the lead up to Christmas.

In my experience of covering the digicam market - there is generally less new cameras released at the end of the year and they tend to be more of a ‘tweak’ nature than real updates (although in the last year or two even many of the start of year releases are ‘tweak’ updates too).

While you could go out and get a fairly newly released camera today - it could be worth waiting a couple of months for the new range of digital cameras.

Of course when a new camera comes out you tend to pay a premium for it - which leads us onto our third question.

Buying Advice: If time and price isn’t an issue then wait for the next round of cameras to be released in February
- March next year.


3. Is Price a Major Consideration?

Ok - so if the need for a camera isn’t urgent and you don’t mind if you don’t have the very very latest released camera - you might be more interested in getting a good deal.

If price is what you’re more interested in than features now could be a good time to start shopping around. This will probably vary a little from place to place but here in Australia the lead up to Christmas and the week or two after Christmas is a great time for shopping. We tend to have our biggest sales between Christmas and New Year while in the US there tends to be a lot of great sales after Thanksgiving (right now).

There are a lot of great sales online also. I’ve seen some real discounting happen around the web over the last week or two. Check out our digital camera shop which aggregates deals from a number of online sellers for a guide to prices. Amazon also has a ‘Today’s Deals Page for Digital Cameras‘ that is worth keeping an eye on.

The other reason that now is a good time to buy if price is your main consideration is that stores will be wanting to clear stock for the new releases to come out in the new year. Right up until all the new cameras hit the stores (and particularly in the days following them arriving) there can be some great deals to be had as retailers try to clear stock.

Buying Advice: Start shopping around now and watch out for sales and good deals.

source : http://digital-photography-school.com/when-is-the-best-time-to-buy-a-digital-camera-3-questions-to-ask
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Center Your Subject for Action Shots


Center Your Subject for Action Shots

By Brian Auer

We hear a lot about things such as the rule of thirds and not centering your subject for better composition. But there are times when you should actually center your subject to ensure that you get the shot. Action shots are typically a one chance situation. This can include sports, racing, performances, etc.

The problem with these action scenarios is that the main subject is usually moving quite fast and you only have one opportunity to capture a given moment. Spend too much time thinking about composition rules will ultimately result in missed shots. Here are a few reasons why you should think about centering your subject (and some tips for action shots):

* It’s easier for your AF camera to focus on the subject when centered — nothing worse than a sharp background and blurry subject. The caveat to this is if you have your camera set to spot focus somewhere other than the center.
* Most manual focus screens have additional feedback at the center of the frame — use it!
* Center your subject and you won’t miss a shot due to over-thinking the composition.
* Leave a bit of extra room around the main subject so that you can crop for better composition later.
* Use continuous AF to track the action — especially when the subject is moving toward or away from you.
* Get the dang shot!

source: http://blog.epicedits.com/2009/05/12/center-your-subject-for-action-shots/
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How to Buy a Digital Camera - A 9 Step Guide

by Darren Rowse


I’m not going to talk you through all the different features on a digital camera or tell you which models are best
(something that is really quite individual and which changes regularly over time) however there are a few questions and factors to keep in mind when making the decision of which camera is best for you.

When searching for a digital camera there are a few factors that I encourage people to keep in mind when they buy
a digital camera (while there are 9 ’steps’ they are not necessarily a sequence you follow)

So lets get onto some tips for buying digital cameras:
How to Buy a Digital Camera

1. Determine what you need

A mistake I see some digital camera buyers making is that they get sucked into buying cameras that are beyond what
they really need. Some questions to ask yourself before you go shopping:

* What do you need the camera for?
* What type of photography will you be doing? (portraits, landscapes, macro, sports)
* What conditions will you be largely photographing in? (indoors, outdoors, low light, bright light)
* Will you largely stay in auto mode or do you want to learn the art of photography?
* What experience level do you have with cameras?
* What type of features are you looking for? (long zoom, image stabilization, large LCD display etc)
* How important is size and portability to you?
* What is your budget?

Ask yourself these questions before you go to buy a camera and you’ll be in a much better position to make a
decision when you see what’s on offer. You’ll probably find the sales person asks you this question anyway -
so to have thought about it before hand will help them help you get the right digital camera.


2. Megapixels are NOT everything

One of the features that you’ll see used to sell digital cameras is how many megapixels a digital camera has.

When I first got into digital photography, a few years back, the megapixel rating of cameras was actually quite
important as most cameras were at the lower end of today’s modern day range and even a 1 megapixel increase was
significant.

These days, with most new cameras coming out with at least 5 megapixels, it isn’t so crucial. In fact at the upper
end of the range it can actually be a disadvantage to have images that are so large that they take up enormous
amounts of space on memory cards and computers.

One of the main questions to ask when it comes to megapixels is ‘Will you be printing shots’? If so - how
large will you be going with them? If you’re only printing images at a normal size then anything over 4 or
so megapixels will be fine. If you’re going to start blowing your images up you might want to pay the extra
money for something at the upper end of what’s on offer today.

3. Keep in mind the ‘extras’

Keep in mind as you look at cameras that the price quoted may not be the final outlay that you need to make as
there are a variety of other extras that you might want (or need) to fork out for including:

* Camera Case
* Memory Cards
* Spare Batteries/Recharger
* Lenses (if you are getting a DSLR)
* Filters (and other lens attachments)
* Tripods/Monopods
* External Flashes
* Reflectors

Some retailers will bundle such extras with cameras or will at least give a discount when buying more than one
item at once. Keep in mind though that what they offer in bundles might not meet you needs. For example it’s
common to get a 16 or 32 megabyte memory card with cameras - however these days you’ll probably want something
at least of 500 megabytes (if not a gigabyte or two).
4. Do you already own any potentially compatible gear?

Talking of extra gear - one way to save yourself some cash is if you have accessories from previous digital
cameras that are compatible with your new one.

For example memory cards, batteries, lenses (remember that many film camera lenses are actually compatible
with digital SLRs from the same manufacturers), flashes, filters etc.

5. DSLR or Point and Shoot?

Dslr-Point-And-ShootWhile digital SLRs are getting more affordable they are not for everyone.
Keep in mind that they are usually bigger, heavier, harder to keep clean (if you’re changing lenses)
and can be more complicated to operate than point and shoot. Of course there are some upsides also.

6. Optical Zooms are King

Not all ‘zooms’ are created equal.

When you’re looking at different models of digital cameras you’ll often hear their zooms talked about in two ways.
Firstly there’s the ‘optical zoom’ and then there’s the ‘digital zoom’.

I would highly recommend that you only take into consideration the ‘optical zoom’ when making a decision about
which camera to buy. Digital zooms simply enlarge the pixels in your shot which does make your subject look bigger, but it also makes it look more pixelated and your picture ‘noisier’ (like when you go up close to your TV).

If you’re looking for a zoom lens make sure it’s an optical zoom (most modern cameras have them of at least 3x
in length - ie they’ll make your subject three times as big - with an increasing array of ’super zooms’ coming
onto the market at up to 12x Optical Zoom).

7. Read reviews

Before buying a digital camera take the time to do a little research. Don’t JUST rely upon the advice of the
helpful sales person (who may or may not know anything about cameras and who may or may not have sales incentives
for the camera they are recommending).

Read some reviews in digital camera magazines or online to help you narrow down the field. There are some great
websites around that give expert and user reviews on virtually every camera on the market - use this wonderful
and free resource.

A little self promotion here - one such site is my Digital Photography Blog which is a site that collates the
reviews of many sites from around the web. To use it best enter the camera’s model name that you’re looking for
a review on in the search feature in the top right side bar. It’ll give you a link to a central page that has
information on the camera as well as links to any reviews published online on that camera from around the web.

8. Hands On Experience

Once you’ve narrowed down your search to a handful of cameras head into your local digital camera shop and ask
to see and play with them. There’s nothing like having the camera in your hands to work out whether it suits
your needs.

When I shop for a camera I generally use the web to find reviews, then I head into a street in my city with 4
camera shops side by side and I go from shop to shop asking for recommendations and seeing the cameras live in
the flash. In doing this I generally find the same camera or two are recommended in most shops and I get to
see them demonstrated by different people (this gives a more well rounded demo). I also get to play with it and
get a feel for which one I could see myself using.

9. Negotiate

After you’ve selected the right digital camera for you it’s time to find the best price.

Once again, I generally start online (on a site like our store) and do some searches to find the most competitive
prices on the models I’m interested in. With these in hand I’m in a good position to be able to negotiate in
person with local stores and/or with online stores. I generally find that retail stores will negotiate on price
and will often throw in freebies. Online stores are more difficult - most bigger ones don’t give you the ability
to negotiate but smaller ones often will if you email them.

Don’t forget to ask for free or discounted bonuses including camera cases, memory cards, extra batteries, filters,
free prints, cases etc. I even know of a couple of stores that offer camera lessons that you can ask to be included.
Some stores will also consider giving you a trade in on older gear.

I generally do negotiating from home on the phone and only go into a store to pick up the camera after a price is
agreed upon.

source : http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-buy-a-digital-camera
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So You Think You Know What An F-Number Is

So You Think You Know What An F-Number Is
By Brian Auer

Most of us have heard, and probably used, the term f-number. Most of us have also probably used the term interchangably with “f-stop” or “aperture”. What are all these things, really? Yes, they have to do with the size of the holeallowing light to pass through the lens, and they affect depth of field and light intensity. But I’m talking aboutwhat these things really are.

First, let’s start with a few definitions. An aperture is simply a hole which allows light to pass through it.A diaphragm is the mechanism inside your lens that forms an aperture, and most modern lenses have an iris diaphragm made up of several interlocking blades. An f-stop is a discrete step in the f-number, and it refers to the physical stops in the diaphragm adjustment. So how are all these things different from an f-number?

An f-number is a measure of lens speed and it is defined by the focal length of the lens divided by the diameter of the aperture — f/# = f/D where f = focal length and D = aperture diameter. So if the focal length of the lens is equal to the diameter of the aperture, you’d have an f/1. If the focal length of the lens is 8 times longer than the diameter of the aperture, you’d have an f/8.

F-Number = f/D = (Focal Length)/(Aperture Diameter)

Here’s an example with one of my fixed focal length lenses (zooms are a little more complicated so I’ll hit that in a moment). I have a 50mm f/1.4 lens. The f/1.4 designation means that it has a maximum f-number of 1.4 — so that’s as big as it gets. The minimum f-number on this lens is f/16, so it can vary from f/1.4 to f/16. So using the formula for f-number: at a 50mm focal length and an f-number of 1.4, the equation states 1.4(f/#) = 50mm(f)/(D). Do the algebra, and we get 50mm/1.4 = 35.7mm. That’s physically how big the aperture is at it’s maximum. If I had a f/1.2 lens, the max aperture would be 41.7mm. Now to the other end of the scale, the aperture on this lens has a minimum diameter of 50mm/16 = 3.1mm. Similarly, my 105mm f/2.8 lens has a maximum f-number of f/2.8, an aperture diameter of 37.5mm — which is about the same size as my 50mm lens at
f/1.4, which is two stops up from f/2.8.

On the 50mm lens, including the minimum and maximum f-numbers, there are a total of 8 full
f-stops: f/1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, and 16, with half-stops between everything but 1.4 and 2
(things like f/1.7, f/6.7, and f/9.5 are half stops — f/1.8, f/3.5, and f/6.3 are third stops found
in most modern lenses). Each full stop lets half as much light in as the last full stop. This is
because the area of the aperture is reduced by half with each stop. The values in the table represent the f-numbers, aperture diameters, and aperture areas for this lens. Note the reduction of area as the f-numbers increase. Each full stop down lets half as much light into the camera, and you can see that the area of the aperture for each stop is also cut in half. This is where a lot of people end up confusing themselves over f-numbers. Higher f-numbers mean smaller apertures — just remember that. To help explain the numbers in the table a little better, the image below shows the 50mm lens at each full stop from f/1.4 to f/16 from left to right.

Zoom lenses are a bit more complicated, and they generally fall into two groups: constant f-number and variable f-number. Variable f-number zooms are most common because they are simpler and cheaper. You can spot these lenses by their markings — f/3.5-6.3 means that the lens has a maximum f-number of f/3.5 at the shorter focal length and f/6.3 at the longer focal length. This doesn’t mean that the aperture changes as you zoom; it actually means that it doesn’t change. Remember that f-number is the quotient of focal length and aperture diameter, so as you zoom to a higher focal length (and keep the aperture constant) you allow less light into the camera and the f-number changes. On the other hand, the really spendy zoom lenses can maintain a constant f-number at all focal lengths. To achieve this, they must increase the effective aperture diameter as the focal length increases to keep the same f-number ratio.

F-numbers in zoom lenses aren’t quite as simple as I’ve made them out to be. That’s basically how they work, but truthfully, I don’t know exactly how they work. If you run the numbers on a zoom lens, it turns out that you don’t get a constant aperture diameter as the focal length increases and the f-number changes. Physically, I’m pretty sure the aperture diameter stays the same. But when you zoom a lens, you shift the location of lens elements, the diaphragm, focal planes, inflection points, etc., and some of these things are factors for the effective aperture diameter. I’m not an optics expert, so I’ll leave it at that.

Basically, the major take-away from this should be that the f-number is a measure of lens speed — regardless of the camera, regardless of the lens, and regardless of the conditions. If you and a friend are out shooting, you should be able to get the same exposure of a particular subject if you shoot using the same f-number, shutter speed, and ISO value (assuming ISO’s between cameras is somewhat comparable). It takes the focal length and aperture diameter into account in order to give a value of how much light will be allowed into the camera.


source: http://blog.epicedits.com/2007/06/16/so-you-think-you-know-what-an-f-number-is/

http://blog.epicedits.com/author/Brian/
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Sony Digital Camera Cyber-shot DSC-T900



The Sony Digital Camera Cyber-shot DSC-T900 slim T line digital camera. This Sony digital camera has a 4x optical zoom lens, records 12-megapixel images, and HD video at 1280x720 resolution. It has 3.5-inch LCD with 920,000-dot touch-screen.

FEATURE

Easy Mode
A picture paints a thousand words, so easy-to-understand screen icons are used to help you control the settings of your Cyber-shot. But for even greater simplicity, switch to Easy Mode and the camera will do all the thinking for you, and can even display just the bare essentials like remaining shots and battery life.

Touch screen simplicity
Shoot and share with greater ease than ever. With One Touch Thinking, simple onscreen graphics displayed on your clear, touch screen LCD will guide you easily to the best settings for the shooting environment.

Full High Definition 1080
Photos are meant to be shared. Now, with Full HD 1080 output, it’s easier than ever to show off your holiday shots or create an entertaining slideshow of party photos. Using an optional cable, just plug your Cyber-shot into any High Definition TV for crystal clear, vivid images that everyone can enjoy together. Not available on the DSCS730

Music Slideshow
Choose a music track, choose a presentation style, then sit back and relive your memories using Music Slideshow. It adds a whole new dimension to sharing your favourite shots.

BIONZ Image Processing Engine
The BIONZ Image Processing Engine suppresses colour and luminance noise, giving you enhanced colour reproduction, rich tonal graduations and an amazing clarity of detail that captures the instant the way it was meant to be.

Intelligent Scene Recognition
Let the camera detect between the different types of scenes, automatically selecting the optimum settings for each situation. With this mode, shooting in varied situation is a breeze.

Carl Zeiss Vario-Tessar Lens
The world renowned Carl Zeiss Vario-Tessar lens is an exceptional optical solution that gives you the crisp imaging detail and vivid colour reproduction you have come to expect from an outstanding lens maker.

Double Anti-Blur Technologies
Sony's Double Anti-Blur combines two key technologies, High Sensitivity and Optical Steadyshot, to significantly reduce motion blurs and allow you to capture sharp images in any situation.

Scene Selection
Each of the Scene Selection mode has pre-set settings that allow you to select the optimal configurations for your image with just a touch of your finger. So no matter what the shooting condition, just switch to the most suitable mode and start snapping.
12.1 Mega Pixels
With 12.1 Mega Pixels, your picture offer amazing sharpness and clarity. Crop any part of an image that captured your imagination, its pin-sharp clarity will remain breathtaking. Should you require a larger print, the high resolution keeps quality impressively high.

source : http://www.sony.com.au
specification : http://www.sony.com.au/product/dsc-t900/sku/dsc-t900_s++au2

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FUJI Digital Camera FINEPIX Z300





Fujifilm announcing its first ever touch-screen digital compact camera, FinePixZ300. This camera features a 3” LCD Touch Screen panel which allows users to control and play around with the built-in features with just a simple finger touch. Users can touch configure the setting, snap photos and slide the images for replay conveniently using just their finger tips. With features such as Scene Recognition AUTO, a versatile 5x optical zoom, Group and Couple self-timer modes, plus its Touch Screen technology and iconic design, the Fujifilm FinePix Z300 is this year’s must have gadget.
Capable of recording VGA quality video at 30fps, the FinePix Z300 measures 92 x 56.5 x 18.5 mm and weighs 150g.
There’s also touch-focus control, automatic scene selection and face detection for up to 10 individual faces; the Z300 can even recognize faces when they’re in profile, oblique and upside-down. Onboard storage is 31MB, augmented by an SD/SDHC card slot.
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SAMSUNG Digital Camera WB500/HZ10W



SAMSUNG WB500/HZ10W
Samsung digital camera WB500 comes with 10x optical zoom and 720p HD movie recording.



FEATURES:

* 10.2 Megapixels (effective pixels).
1/2.33 inch CCD sensor

* World famous Schneider Kreuznach 10x optical zoom.
F3.3-F5.8 approximately 24-240mm equvalent to 35 mm film.

* TFT 2.7 inch LCD ( 230.000 dots).

* ISO range up to 3200 (3MP)

* Dual Image Stabilization.
Using Optical Image Stablization + Digital Image Stabilization.

* HD 720p movie recording with H.264 codec and stereo microphone.
High quality video enabled optical zoom while recording.

* Perfect Portrait Technology.
Face detection, Smile shutter, Blink detection, Self Shoot, Beauty shot.

Specification :
http://www.samsungcamera.com/product/pro_view.asp?prol_uid=4584&step1=2&step2=1

source :
http://www.samsungcamera.com

SAMSUNG WB500/HZ10W review :
http://www.digitalartsonline.co.uk/reviews/index.cfm?ReviewID=1021
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/q209grouplongzoom/page6.asp




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FUJI Digital Camera FINEPIX F200 EXR



FUJI FINEPIX F200 EXR

New Digital camera from Fuji that offer wide dynamic range and low noise sensitivity.

* 12 Megapixels (effective pixels).
1/1.6 inch Super CCD EXR with CCD Shift image stabilization.

* New Super CCD EXR and EXR processor. EXR Priority optimized for fine detail HIGH RESOLUTION,
WIDE DYNAMIC RANGE, and HIGH SENSIVITY AND LOW NOISE.

* Fujinon 5x optical zoom.
F3.3-F32 approximately 28-140mm equvalent to 35 mm film.

* Bright TFT 3 inch colour display ( 230.000 dots) 100% coverage.
Provides high contrast to view the images, wide viewing angle from any angle,
and also detect available light to automatically adjust screen brightness.

* ISO range up to 12800.

* Film Simulation Mode.
PROVIA (normal), VELVIA (vivid), ASTIA (soft), BW, SEPHIA.

* Dual Image Stabilization.
Using CCD Shift Image and Finepix sensivity prevent image blur.

* Super Intelligent Flash
Next Generation Flash system make it easy to capture subjects and background on bright,
clear, and natural.

Specification :
http://www.fujifilmusa.com/products/digital_cameras/f/finepix_f200exr/specifications/index.html

source :
http://www.fujifilmusa.com/products/digital_cameras/f/finepix_f200exr/index.html

FUJI FINEPIX F200 EXR review :
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/fujifilmf200exr/
http://www.infosyncworld.com/reviews/digital-cameras/fujifilm-finepix-f200exr/10269.html


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CASIO Digital Camera EXILIM EX-FC100


CASIO EXILIM EX-FC100
Compact High Speed Digital Camera.

* 9.1 Megapixels (effective pixels)
1/2.3 inch high speed CMOS sensor.

* 5x optical zoom with mechanical image stabiliser.
9 lenses in 7 groups, including asperical lens F3.6-F8.5 approximately
37-185mm equvalent to 35 mm film.

* Bright TFT 2.7 inch colour display ( 230.400 dots)
Provides high contrast to view the images, wide viewing angle from any angle,
and also detect available light to automatically adjust screen brightness.

* High speed film recording up to 1000 fps.
High speed movie recording that can be played back in super slow motion, which records at
speeds of 1000 frames per second.

* Slow motion function (capture photo in the right moment).
Shots recorded with slow button scroll on the monitor screen in slow motion,
when the precise moment you want is display, simply press the shutter button
to save it as the final image.

* Pre-record mode ( continuous recording up to 30 images/second )
Pressing the shutter button saves the pre-recorded images followed by newly
recorded real-time images.

* High speed anti shake.
When shooting without tripod, it shoots multiple High speed images and then
combines them into final image. This feature eliminate image blur due to hand movement,
even when shooting with zoom.

* High speed night shot.
Help to minimize guesswork out of night scene photography.when held by hand,
the camera activates CMOS Shift Stabilization for beautiful night potrait with minimal blur.

* HD (High Definition) video recording.
The High Speed Exilim HD records 1280x720 images at 30 frames/second

* Lag correction
It corrects for three types of time lag that occur during still image shooting
by shifting the recording timing back slightly.

* High speed Best Selection (selection from series of shots automatically).
Select the best shots based on image blur, and whether the subject is blinking or smiling.
Face detection can detect multiple faces, so you can use this feature to shoot images of groups.


Specification :
http://www.casio.com/products/Cameras/High_Speed_EXILIM/EX-FC100BK/

source :
http://www.casio.com/products/Cameras/High_Speed_EXILIM/EX-FC100BK/

CASIO EXILIM EX-FC100 review :
http://www.infosyncworld.com/reviews/digital-cameras/casio-exilim-ex-fc100/10182.html
http://www.ephotozine.com/article/Casio-Exilim-EXFC100-11608




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